![]() ![]() Print (very easy -you just wipe it with the felt pouch). There is a product you might want to look into which you put onto your vellum before you The Crystaline brand of vellum is made from only new rags, and not old stuff. True Vellum is made from rag stock, and is strong and very robust. Pure transbond is dirt cheap and has no vellum to it and is just a thin paper with a transparentizer. In radical cases even weeks, even if forced dried under a box fan in a dry room!An unbranded vellum can be also some of the new cheapie stuff that is NOT 100% vellum, but say 25% vellum, and 75% transbond like paper stock. A wrong ink to coating combo will also cause long drying times. The details flow together it can take hours to dry when overloaded. If you overload the vellum with too much ink it is like painting a bath towel with a brush. The industry standard for thin inkjet vellums was 17Lb and now is mostly 16Lb vellum. Try sending a lighter image to the vellum if the dark areas get all run together as one black tone. ![]() For small stuff there is a large following with inkjet usage for wedding invitations etc. Here I have used Dietzgen, Azon, Oce, and Universal inkjet vellum materials on 36" wide inkjet printers for a decade, almost two. These digital images are dropped into cad drawings and print full grey scale with old daizo/bluelines, or greyscale large format bond. Full tone images are many times done on engineering drawings to illustrate say old hardware, like AC units on a roof to be removed. Ie one "back off the ink" as we printers say. Many times one must throw in a transfer function. It DOES NOT have the coating thick enough for full photo usage with full ink coverage. Vellum for inkjet is made for engineering drawings, line drawings usually blended for water based dye inkjet inks. On "packs", the coating is usually the up side, but sometimes it is pasckaged wrong. On roll products the coating is on the outside of the roll. Inkjet Vellum as Ann mentioned is coated. ![]()
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